The Krib Apistogramma/Dwarf Cichlids | [E-mail] | ||
On Wed, 6 Nov 1996, William Vannerson wrote: > I don't keep any apistos ... yet. I'll be getting some labidochromus > ceruleas "electric yellows" for my first cichlid tank. I'd also like to get a > few Rams for my community tank, which has several (5) male Killies. > Wright, you're on both lists, do you think I'd run into any problems with > this experiment. I keep killies and dwarf Neotropical cichlids together routinely without any problems. Now I have F. gardneri and A. nijsseni housed together. I've kept A. bivattatum with A. borelli, A. bitaeniatum with Laetacara, and Cynolebias whitei with P. altispinnosa, all without much conflict. The only problem I ran into was when the Laetacara developed some disease that also wiped out my A. bitaeniatum. However, killies dumped in with small African cichlids become hors d'oevres. That's how I cull my killies. All I have in Apistos and look-alikes right now are a couple of P. altispinnosa (apparently both males), a female A. nijsseni (male just wasted away and died this week - sigh!), and a large unidentified female. I'm just getting back into Apistos and they are hard to find around here. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Donald Nute Professor and Head, Department of Philosophy (706) 542-2823 Director, Artificial Intelligence Center (706) 542-0358 The University of Georgia FAX (706) 543-2839 Athens, Georgia 30602, U.S.A http://ai.uga.edu/faculty/nute
>I've read apisto's and cory's are a volatile mix -with the cory's ending >up floating. I've been too concerned by this to actually try. First hand >experience anyone?. I keep dwarf corys with A. agazzizi and A. gibbiceps without incident. I've also heard someone warn about this -- along with Otocinclus sp. -- but my experience so far does not support the warning. Some of the nastier Apistos such as nijsseni and pandurini might be a problem. ----------- Reminder: Kindly quote parsimoniously when replying ------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-aquaria.net. To subscribe or unsubscribe or get help , send the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" or "help" in the body (not subject) to apisto-request-at-aquaria.net
I have never seen a direct attack of an Apisto on a corydoras, and in fact, rarely see it even with somewhat bigger dwarfs such as Pelvicachromis. When females are on spawns, there is more aggression, but it appears to be only defensive in nature, and limited to the immediate region around the spawn site. I have not lost spawns to corys, but I do keep some light on in the vicinity of the spawning tanks. I do frequently loose spawns to the females themselves, typically bit by bit, or on the second night. But that's another topic. I don't keep corys in all my apisto tanks, and where I do, they are typically excess paleatus from previous Cory spawning attempts. I keep all of my corys together in a 55 gallon, where I can keep the temperature low, the water current high, and the feedings of blackworms heavy. My corys in Apisto tanks never get blackworms, and thus are not ever in breeding condition. They are there mainly to help clean up the bottom from stray pellet and frozen food - a job they do well. As for the aggressive nature of nijsseni and pandurini, I agree that their volatility tends to be focused on conspecifics, and rarely on other tank inhabitants. Further, I have found that once a pair of pandurinis has been established, their aggressive interactions calm way down, even in a 10 gallon tank! I have a pair spawning each week, and the female readily allows the male to patrol the outer reaches of the tank, and even occasionally come near the spawning cave. Now if only she would'nt consume the spawn the second night! ----------- Reminder: Kindly quote parsimoniously when replying ------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-aquaria.net. To subscribe or unsubscribe or get help , send the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" or "help" in the body (not subject) to apisto-request-at-aquaria.net
I have two tanks with apistos. One is a really well planted 30g, with 3 ottos and SAE and 2 corys and 2 gouramis, not to mention my apistos that breed like clockwork. My SAE is a tank. He will fight the apistos, even when 2 attack while protecting fry. He munchs food any time he can, far as I am concerned, In my setup, he is useless and will betaken back, even if I have to pay for them to take it! Now my other tank is planted, not as densely. This 20g serves as a fry tank and I have a school of 3 ottos that clean this tank. The apistos have no idea what they are, they just sorta 'sniff' the otto and leave it alone. I'd try some ottos. They do not eat fry eggs or food. Mike o------------------------------o | mcgrath-at-mad.scientist.com | | ----- | | Junk mail me, I will junk | | mail you right back! | | ----- | | www.citilink.com/~mcgrath | o------------------------------o ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com.
I have to disagree with Wright on breeding Apistos in a community tank. I've had success with A. caetei, A. borelli, A. cacatuoides, and A. agassizii in well-planted community tanks no larger than 10 gallons. I would think many of these species would be successful in a 55 gallon community tank, although you certainly can't expect to raise as many fry in these conditions. Still, my goal is not to raise the maximum number of fry but to enjoy the fish and their behavior. I have tetras, killies, rainbows, and corys in my dwarf tanks ranging from 10, 20, and 30 to 55 gallons. In a 55 gallon, I would try a harem of one species or pairs of two different species of Apisto in a well-planted tank with a "flock" of 15-20 tetras, killies, rainbows, danios in the middle to upper reaches of the tank and maybe a few corys or ottos. I have had periods when nobody wanted to spawn and periods (like now) where they seem to spawn on the carport as I bring them home. Right now, I have A. caetei, A. mcmasteri, A. cacatuoides, and A. borelli all with fry. But don't be discouraged if your fish take a while to settle in. A year ago, I was struggling to keep my Apistos alive, much less spawning - even though I have been keeping fish for 25 years and had success with Apistos before. I still don't know what I was doing wrong. Maybe I was just watching them too much. - ------------------------------------------------------------------ Donald Nute Professor and Head, Department of Philosophy (706) 542-2823 Director, Artificial Intelligence Center (706) 542-0358 The University of Georgia FAX (706) 542-2839 Athens, Georgia 30602, U.S.A http://ai.uga.edu/faculty/~dnute ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
A little while ago I bought three pairs of Apistos, of which one was clearly A. njesseni, one turned out to be A. maciliense (formerly a subspecies of trifasciata, if I understand well) and the third was still to small to say. Now that those are bigger, I think they match pretty well the characteristics of A. staecki (short lyrate tail with rows of spots, rather slender body, small size, dark blotches on the back, around the insertion of the dorsal fin). The only difference compared to the picture on of the book by Linke and Staeck is that the first 1-2 rays of the dorsal fin are black. If anybody has useful or interesting information on this species, I would appreciate to hear it. Also, they have already bred, in soft water, only moderately acidic and sometimes neutral (recently pH has been creeping up in my tanks, probably in consequence to changes in the tapwater). If anybody in the north NJ area is interested in exchanges, drop me an e-mail in January, to see how things are going. Incidentally, they are in a small tank (2.5 gal., one third for the male and the rest for the female, the filter and the heater. They seem quite comfortable in such small space, since anyway they do not move much away from their hiding spaces). The A. maciliense are now at their second spawn. After their first one, I separated the male behind a partition. The fry have been growing very slowly (at least compared to A. cacatuoides or L. curviceps), and three days ago I decided to move both parents to a 2.5 gal. Yesterday I saw the typical female defensive/aggressive behavior, and in fact there were eggs in the flowerpot. What surprised me was that of the 20 or so ramshorn snails in the tank, about 15 were by the eggs (the poor female was desperate!), and the size of the spawn was much smaller than last time. I interpreted it as if the snails were having a good dinner, and they promptly became a calcium-rich snack for my Discus (not that I feel good killing snails, but I have no place to put them). Several eggs survived, and now the female is watching them by herself (I moved the male back behind the partition of the original tank). One suspicion on which I would like to hear some feedback. I wonder if it is possible that if after spawning I keep the male and female separate for too long (say, 6-8 weeks), often once back together it takes a long time before the female lays eggs again. On the contrary, if I separate them only for few weeks, the promptly spawn again once re-united. Is this possible? Dionigi Maladorno dionigi.maladorno-at-roche.com This message presents personal opinions which are not necessarily those of my employer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Anyways, they don't seem to be getting physical, but has >anyone else experienced this?? Is it bad news or what? Soon as I see any >violence I will remove the cacatuoides to his old tank. > >Thanks. > >Mike I have housed more than one species of Apistos in the same tank. The difference was that I also had the females in with them. I don't see why you should have any real trouble as long as there are no females. Right now, I have a 55 gallon community plant tank with a handful of A. cacatuoides and a pair of A. bitaeniata. No problems. The male cacatuoide is only flaring at his own kind and is ignoring the other species. There are also some Black Neons, Otos, and Bristlenose plecos (my babies) and a handful of Albino Guppies. Everything is fine. If in the future you do plan on spawning them, put ONE pair in a tank of their own. Let nature take its' course. Hope this helped. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Hi all Regarding the Congo tetras I'd agree with Randy. My P. taeniatus "Moliwe", still being quite small, seem to have no prob with the big fish, even at feeding time. My very shy Ch. guntheri managed just fine when I had them in there as well. If tetras is a must, the number of choices is limited. Hemigrammopetersius. caudalis is an excellent one. I haven't tried the Neolebias species so no comment. If tankmates, in general, is the question, I'd turn to killies. The Lampeyes, which someone already mentioned, are the African equivalent of smaller, schooling tetras. The Procatopus-species are generally harder to keep end breed than the Aplocheilichthys, as well as harder to come by. They are very cool and a good match. Smaller Epiplatys and Aphyosemion work as well. I have had Epiplatys with SA and WA dwarfs without any problems. Certain species of Epiplatys may be inappropriate (generally the larger ones) because they're predators. I've had Ep. chaperi, dageti, grahami, lamottei and singa with great success (roloffi with no success...). They hang out just below the surface and are good dithers for really shy dwarfs (and they are easy to keep and breed!!). Aphyosemions are extremely colourful killies, mid water level swimmers. Many of the smaller species will work just fine. They have more colour and are more lively than the Epiplatys. Aph gabunense, striatum, bivittatum, australe should work fine, If the tank is big enough, why not a few Epiplatys at the top and a school of H. caudalis for the middle??? //Fredrik -- Fredrik.Ljungberg-at-saab.se Saab Ab Flutter and Loads Department voice +46 13 18 54 60, fax +46 13 18 33 63 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
I agree with Ken. I have/had a breeding pair of Kribs and when the pair were spawning they kept all of the others in the tank (A.Biteniata, S. Jurupari, tetras, etc.) on the other side of the tank...Very aggressive. -----Original Message----- From: Ken Laidlaw <K.Laidlaw-at-roe.ac.uk> To: apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com <apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com> Date: Monday, January 26, 1998 12:20 AM Subject: Re: A. cruzi? > >> Hi! >> I am planning to add a pair of cribs to my tank with pair of Cruzi. (My >> friend's larger pair of cribs is about to spawn and does not tolerate >> anyone around). This pair is much smaller then my Cruzi (1-1.5" vs >> 2-2.5"). Will they have any problems getting together or it is not a good >> idea at all? My cruzi continue to live separately and I almost do not see >> them so may be a little fight will give them shake-up? > >Hi, >This is probably dependant on the size of tank. It may >work if the tank is 36" or larger. Make sure to include >many hiding places if things turn nasty. I would think >that an Apisto could not stand up to a Pelvicachromis >species. > >Ken. > > > >------------------------------------------------------------------------- >This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. >For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, >email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. >Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
> Andy writes: > > > I am planning a 55 gallon planted tank with Apistos and a pair of Discus and > > some small tetras. Any suggestions as to what type of apistos would be > > great. > > I'm thinking Borelli. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I'd like, of > > course, both the Discus and the Apistos to spawn in this tank. > I saw a pair of panduro spawning in an 80 gallon Discus tank today. It was a bare tank, and the apistos were spawning in a corner. They were defending 1/3 of the tank against half a dozen adult-sized discus, and terrorizing them, even as they were laying the eggs. It was something to think about. -Gary ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
> Any other comments on this will be appreciated. I have kept corys, because I breed them, with apistos but only until the apistos begin spawning. Basically for the same reason that Rich had sited. The corys will go and eat the fry and are not bother by the female trying to keep them out of her 'house'. I have the same problem in a 100 gallon community tank with a pair of wild kribs that spawn on a regular basis. Good luck Kaycy ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
>> I would worry about the zebra pleco eating eggs. They are armored well >enough >> that the parent Apistos won't have much affect on them. > >Anyone know if Peckoltias do this too? I have a couple with my Nannochromis >but will whip em out in jiffy if they're risky! >Jason Most of the Peckoltias will eat fry on the bottom at night. ( Not All but most). My zebras (4) would eat 12 ghoast shrimp each week. They must catch them at night? Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
On Mon, 5 Oct 1998, J Miller wrote: > I have three A. sp. "rotpunkt" in a twenty gallon community tank. I have at > least one male (1.5' w/ blue specs on his head) and one female (1' w/ black > on her pelvic fins) the other is just under 1'. Also in the tank are three > emperor tetras, two bronze corys, and one clown pleco. There is plenty of > rock and wood work for hiding and some java fern and java moss in the tank > as well. > Should work, but watch out for those emporers. We had a pair of P pulcher that spawned and tormented everyone in a 75 gallon tank until we put in 3 emporer tetras. Never saw fry again and the emporer totally destroyed the community atmosphere of the tank. The rummy nose tetras and the D. filamentosus never came out any more. They were mean little buggers, we gave them away and all returned to normal. Kathy ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto-at-majordomo.pobox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request-at-majordomo.pobox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Maybe my tank is the exception, but I have a whole bunch of other fish in my 90 gal plant tank where the rams spawned. As a habitat biologist I always carry that phrase from the Kevin Costner movie about that ball park in the cornfield 'if you build it they will come'- I think even in the busiest tank, if you give your fish the right conditions they will spawn. My rams took a year and a half to start spawning regularly, but now when they are fed regularly and well, they spawn every week and a half to two weeks. The one big caveat is that the babies don't last long in that setting (but I could never take care of them all anyway. The rams are not agressive enought to keep the other fish out (unlike the apistos). My water is pH=3D6.4, KH=3D3, GH=3D4, Temp 78-F. I almost forgot to mention what seemed to be the most important trigger for spawning (assuming everthing else was right already)- I placed a very flat rock (about 10-cm in diameter) in the area that two of my four rams liked to court in- they spawned the next day.
Good luck!
Cory Williamson
-----Original Message----- From: Mike & Diane Wise <apistowise@bewellnet.com> To: apisto@admin.listbox.com <apisto@admin.listbox.com> Date: April 17, 1999 7:24 AM Subject: Re: Kym, Appears you have wall-to-wall bottom dwellers! Move the Rams to a breeding tank. Your community is too "busy" for breeding!=20 K & D Martin wrote: Cool! WHat are your water specifics? I have 5 of these guys and no one is making any sort of move, i've had them since October and they weren't much smaller then so i think they are of age. My water is RO, about 6.8, about 82 degrees, 1 degree GH. I don't know if it is the fact there are other fish in there, got a pleco, large one, i need to get out of there, and a bunch of kribs and one pesky pink convict that was supposed to have been dinner months ago but managed to survive, he is now much bigger than any of the dwarfs and bugging everything, i have tried about everything to catch him but i have too many nooks and crannies in there. Also got some clown loaches and tetras. Any advice? kym
Hi all, I'm a long time reader "lurker" of the list.I'm a Apisto , SA dwarf cichlid nut for a few years.I was born and raised in Germany and moved to the US 11 years ago. I stumbled across a very interesting statement in Uwe Römer's Book "Cichliden Atlas" that I translated for y'all to kick around(Page 306 -308)Aquarium Biology A.bitaenniata,beginning of 4th sentence: An optimum keeping would be in groups of ca.10-20 individuals of this species w.small characins or small top oriented Bachlingen (Pencilfish?) in relatively soft humic acidic water.Corydoras,ancistrine and loriiciid catfish or small pike cichlids (dwarf crenicichla)would be adequate aquarium companions.In contrary to the often in the aquarium world mentioned fear,healthy dwarf cichlid are very able to raise their brood around catfish and small crenicichla,if they have enough hiding places.In such aquarium keeping which I practise for many years,the breeding success is not as high as single pair keeping, but it is high enough to keep the line going,and the fish develope their complete natural behavior repertoire.Unfortunately many aquaristik publications suffer under the little knowledge their authors have about the behavior potential of the above mentioned species. A.bitaeniata is e.g.in isolated pair keeping (like other Apistogramma species)often very aggressiv what could lead to death.The fish stay polygam in bigger tanks,if you keep groups in an enemy free situation.The males will defend large territories in which they will breed with as many females as possible.If enemy fish appear like fry robbing dwarf crenicichla the fish will build a binding pair that will defend their fry together against the enemys.The roles between the sexes are strictly divided:The male defends the larger breeding area of ca.20cm radius or the fry and the fem.mainly takes care of the eggs,larvey or fry.If an overwhelming predator appears both partners will collect as many fry as they can in their mouth and move them out of the dangerzone.Therefore only the fry that the parents are able to collect will survive in the wild.There are of course a few graduations between these extremes.In any case has the behavior under such husbandry more diversity and is closer to the wild behavior than single pair keeping. Plus another aspekt of the husbandry with enemy fish is the avoidance of mass reproduction.Only pairs that have the biological behavorial adaption potential will have reproduction success.End of translation, M.W. slab me if I made to many mistakes. Very happy to have two weeks old A.nijsseni fry . Max Galladè
Walter, I doubt that the Rams would breed in the same tank with A. cacatuoides unless it was very, very large > 8 feet long. Males of highly polygamous species like A. cacatuoides have been reported to defend tanks over 2 meters long. Rams really don't like a lot of disturbances when breeding or they will eat their eggs/fry. Being smaller than male cacatuoides, and much less aggressive they wouldn't do very well and definitely be out competed in every way. I'd try A. cacatuoides with a dwarf Laetacara or maybe Bolivian Rams. Mike Wise Walter Igharas wrote: > I am very curious and interested in the butterfly Ram and Cuckatoo. > I was wondering if it is possible to have a pair of both species > in a single tank. If it is possible what would be the minimum required > tank > size be? Also what types of plants are suitable for the both species to > feel comfortable? > Thanks. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. > For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, > email apisto-request@listbox.com. > Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request@listbox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Hello All I dont keep any plecos in my apisto tanks, but i do have to admit that recently i added several ottos to my tank that my Apisto Piauensis were in. I didnt think that the pair would spawn in the tank with the ottos in there, but they proved me wrong. The tank had built up a good layer of algae on the side walls and back wall. My intensions were to put the ottos in there to clean up the tank and then remove them so the fish could spawn again. Well the Piauensis spawned again and now have about 30+ wigglers inside the flower pot. The ottos never go anywhere near the opening to the flower pot. I used a terra cotta pot cut in half and place such that the open end faces towards the front of the tank such that i can see into it. So i dont know if plecos would bother apisto eggs or fry, but these ottos dont even seem interested in going near the cave opening. I also have kept plecos in with Kribs and had no problems getting the Kribs to raise fry in that tank successfully without the plecos picking off any eggs or fry. So I kind of think keeping some type of work horse catfish in with my pairs might not be too bad. I'm gonna try this with some young bushy nose ancistrus i have and see what takes place. John
I would not add corys to a tank if you want babies. The parents probably could defend the eggs/fry but why risk it? Small pencil fish make good additions, small mouths and a tendency to stay near the surface. Keep the tank covered because the parents will dart at the pencils and they jump out! For maximum fry production, don't add any other fish, and remove the male once the fry are free swimming. I have had brooding females kill males before in 5 and 10 gal. Never a problem in 20 gal. dave
John Wubbolt wrote: > > Hello everyone > Does anyone else out there raise their young apisto fry with young > killifish fry? I've got a tank of young Veijita ll fry growing out > with some pachypanchax playfairi fry. They seem to be perfect > tankmates, the apisto fry stay down towards the bottom of the tank and > the killie fry stay up towards the surface. I've done this in the past > raising Gardneri Nsukka fry with Cruzi fry and Chocolate Australes with > Cacatuoides. I was wondering if anyone else does this to save on tank > space and what their experiences were: either good or bad. Thanks for > any advice. > > By the way, everyone have a Happy New Year. > > John Hi John, Happy New year. I raise some killies with apistos. Generally, I stick with Epiplatys, lampeyes and Chromaphyosemions. Many Fundulopanchax and Aphyosemions that favour the bottom get slaughtered. I made an error a few weeks ago by putting 20 2cm F. gardneri Mamfense in with 12 or so 1cm A. sp. vielfleck. The Apistos killed all but one gardneri, which they seem now to tolerate as one of their own. About ten minutes ago, I moved some Epiplatys cf olbrechtsi away from aga Alenquers they'd grown up with, as 2 Alenquers have fry. That was a long standing relationship. Gary ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request@listbox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
I think both, John and Dave, are in part correct. Most Corys will compete with Apistos for the same resources. Having said that, the dwarf Corys (at least pygmaeus and hastatus) might be exception. These two species (can't remember about habrosus) prefer to stay in midwater, thus not competing with Apistos as much as your more "typical" Cory. I haven't kept them together but I can see how one can breed Apistos with dwarf Corys. Now, question to John. Have you been succesful breeding the dwarf Corys with Apistos? Julio ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request@listbox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Hello Julio To answer your question, yes. I just had my pygmaeus spawn with viable eggs in a tank with a pair of cacatuoides. When i saw the eggs there were only about 20 or so which i removed from the tank. But then again this is not a normal low number of eggs for pygmaeus. John
O.K. I gotta put my 2 cents worth in here. My apistos spawned in the same tank and successfully raised their fry to adulthood, I may add, in a tank with 3 aeneas and 1 melanistius corys (plus 5 clown loaches). Of course it isn't a bare bottom tank, it's a jungle, but nevertheless the corys (and clowns) stayed out of apisto territory. The aeneas corys do their mating dances and I assume they spawn, but so far zilch. Upstairs at the tank surface I just discovered my third generation of dwarf gourami as well. Cute. This, I thought would be impossible because of the presence of guppies.......seems pop gourami does a much better job of guarding his area than I would have given credit. Gabriella ------------------------------------------------------------------------- This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, email apisto-request@listbox.com. Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"!
Collecting in the wild, we caught pygmaeus in the same netfulls as apisto's. It was quite fun :) So they do occur together in the wild, within inches of each other. The cory's were a little more clustered together but all were within feet of each other. Kathy On Sat, 22 Apr 2000, John Wubbolt wrote: > try pygmaeus or habrosus corys, they are the dwarf species that are good > in with apisto fry. But you have to wait until the apisto fry are big > enough ( like 4 weeks old or older ) that they cant be eaten by the > corys. Newborn apisto fry are small enough to be attacked by the corys > if they are hungry enough. > > John > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > This is the apistogramma mailing list, apisto@listbox.com. > For instructions on how to subscribe or unsubscribe or get help, > email apisto-request@listbox.com. > Search http://altavista.digital.com for "Apistogramma Mailing List Archives"! >
Kristo, When we collected on the Rio Solimoes, I got Cory. hastatus in water just a little shallower than where I was scooping out bunches of apisto's. It was very cool, one inch of water...cory's. Two inches of water...apisto's. The color was great on the wild ones. Now I have them in a community tank with the apisto's and splash tetras I pulled out of the same local. There are probably 15 apistois in the 40 gallon, along with the cory's and tetra's. Despite that density there are a few apisto fry that manage to make it and grow up. It has been really nice to observe community behavior. If you want to raise lots of fry though it is probably best not to have them/a lot of fish in the tank. Pete Johnson use to keep pygmaes or hastatus in with his spawning fish as well. Not sure if he noticed fry loss. I would suspect they would pick off a few fry. Kathy On Wed, 26 Jul 2000, Kristo K M Kulju wrote: > > Hello all! I have a 140 liter community tank with pair of A. panduro, 10 > black neon tetras and 1 Ancistrus sp. I'd like to have some corys in my > tank. Is mixing apistos and corys a good idea? I have heard that C. > pygmaeus would be suitable tankmate for apistos. How about other tiny > corys like C. habrosus or hastatus? Do smaller corys generally get along > better with apistos? > > Thanks for any help, > > Kristo > > > > > >
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