Artificial Hatching
Contents:
- Apisto eggs
by IDMiamiBob/aol.com (Mon, 1 Dec 1997)
- Mutant Aggie Spawn
by Ken Laidlaw <K.Laidlaw/roe.ac.uk> (Fri, 13 Feb 1998)
- Sex Ratio Forecast; Emergency nursery; Small tanks
by "Maladorno, Dionigi \(DRUG;Nutley\)" <DIONIGI.MALADORNO/roche.com> (Fri, 13 Feb 1998)
- egg transferring
by "Mike Jacobs" <mjacobs2/tampabay.rr.com> (Mon, 24 May 1999)
by IDMiamiBob/aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Dec 1997
To: apisto/majordomo.pobox.com
In a message dated 97-12-01 00:27:42 EST, George Wrote:
<< My A.eunotus kept on eating her eggs. Was thinking of hatching them with
> a air stone and some Methylene Blue. Are Apisto eggs to sensitive, to
> use Methylene Blue? Looking for some tips to hatch them.
>>
I have hatched them by this method. The standard dose of Meth blue as per
the bottle is just fine. I usually start my water changes as soon as the fry
are wriggling, so the concentration starts dropping before they are swimming.
Or you could try carbon filtering as soon as they hatch, if you can figure
out how to do it and keep the fry from getting trapped in the filter.
Bob Dixon
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by Ken Laidlaw <K.Laidlaw/roe.ac.uk>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998
To: apisto/majordomo.pobox.com
> 1) Move the male now so he doesn't eat the fry?
Moving the male might incrase your chances of the females
looking after the eggs.
> 2) Move some cories and/or tetras with him?
Definately move the corys, probably best to move the Tetras
as well.
>
> 3) Wait until I can actually catch the fry and move just them?
In my experience fry kept with there mother grow much
faster.
> 4) Try and move just one female w/fry?
This will almost certainly lead to the eggs/fry being
eaten, leave them in peace.
> 5) Try and move all females w/fry?
As above.
One thing I am absolutely against except as a last resort
is to hatch the eggs artificially as I believe that in the
long term this would lead us all to having to hatch
artificially as the fish would forget how to rear the fry
themselves. This has already happened with angels as a
proper pair are more the exception than the rule after
generations of breeders pulling eggs to try and maximise
their financial return. For me one of the main pleasures
in keeping dwarfs is watchingthe females herd and protect
their fry.
You could move any females that lose/eat their eggs to
stop them competing with the other females.
Good luck, you may not get fry this time as it can take a
few attempts.
regards,
Ken.
*****************************
Ken Laidlaw
Royal Observatory, Edinburgh
Tel: 0131-668 8100
Fax: 0131-668 1130
Web: http://www.roe.ac.uk
*****************************
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by "Maladorno, Dionigi \(DRUG;Nutley\)" <DIONIGI.MALADORNO/roche.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998
To: "'apisto/majordomo.pobox.com'" <apisto/majordomo.pobox.com>
swaldron-at-slip.net (Steven J. Waldron)
wrote: <<<<<Sex Ratio Forecast
(...) Imagine this scenario: At the end of the
dry season when water bodies have shrunken, fish are more exposed to
predation, flashy, territorial males have been heavily predated upon, it
may be more adaptive to produce more males to fill this vacancy when the
first rains of the wet arrive. (..)>>>>
I do not know much about these issues, but what you write
sounds quite interesting to me.
I want to share with the List a little emergency trick I just used
to try to give better chances of survival to a spawn of newly
hatched A. cacatuoides.
The fry of my first cacatuoides spawn are adult now, most have
been sold or auctioned, but I kept the two best males and three
females in a 55 gal, with a school of eight quite peaceful silver
dollars
(the spotted type) and a medium size angelfish. My intention
was to just hold them for future exchanges with fish club
members.
One female spawned in the past, but the eggs where soon gone.
A few days ago I found another guarding a batch of eggs on the
side of one of the small flowerpots (she had dug a small pit in the
sand under the flowerpot). She was aggressively defending them
against the other females and the two males, while I could bet
I saw on the face of the silver dollars an expression that sounded
like "keep growing them, we will stop by later....".
When after a couple of days I saw that she had moved the newly
hatched wigglers inside the pot, I decided that she deserved some
help. I have no available tank space elsewhere (the A. maciliensis
fry grow amazingly slowly, and three tanks are still taken by them),
and the temporary nursery I have was too narrow for the flowerpot.
So, I took a 1 gallon plastic water bottle (not the cylindrical type,
but the type roughly cubical), cut out the top leaving the handle,
tied a nylon twine to it, filled it with aquarium water up to 2" from
the edge,
and suspended it in the aquarium holding it in place with the twine tied
to
a leg of the stand. The edges are about 2" above the water. I then run
a small airline in it, with moderate bubbling (no airstone).
Finally, while the female was observing what the hell I was doing from
inside the flowerpot, I gently blocked with my hands both sides of the
flowerpot, lifted it with all its contents, and placed it in the
floating bottle.
Now, two days later, the fry are free swimming, while the female still
threatens any fish that comes too close, whose shade she can still
see through the translucent plastic. I change 2/3 of the water in the
nursery every day (about half with aquarium water, the other half with
tapwater). If they make it, I will soon be able to put them in a tank
with
their one-month old uncles......
For reasons of space, I keep all my apistos in small tanks, 2.5, 5 and
10 gallons with lots of live or plastic plants.
Until now, I never lost any males to female aggressivity after
spawning, since I remove them or partition the tank within 24 hours
after
mating occurs. If hideouts are available, the male avoids major beating
by hiding, and there is plenty of time (say, a few days) for finding
another
residence for him. Even a partitioned 5 gallon is not too bad for the
first
weeks (females and fry on one side, male on the other), provided that
good water changes are made several times a week.
Like others, I found the plastic needlework screens from rag shops very
effective and cheap tank dividers.
Dionigi
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by "Mike Jacobs" <mjacobs2/tampabay.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999
To: <apisto/admin.listbox.com>
Michael, I have, for one reason or another been pulling eggs from some fish
for 15-20 years.....never has there been an occasion that the eggs fungused
due to coming in contact with the air. Now let me say this however, the
longest I've had eggs out of the water is about 15-20 seconds one time
because another fella and myself were in a conversation about
eggs........those eggs developed normally. Usually the time out of the
water is 3-4-5 seconds!
Have a good day!
Mike
Mike Jacobs
Math Instructor, Center for Advanced Technologies
Lakewood H.S., St Pete, Fl.
mfjacobs@geocities.com
mikejacobs2@tampabay.rr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gray <megray1@pop.uky.edu>
To: apisto@admin.listbox.com <apisto@admin.listbox.com>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 3:29 PM
Subject: egg transferring
>If eggs come in contact with air they will die and fungus...True or False?
>I have a couple of species I am trying to breed. It will be their first
>spawn so I plan to steal the eggs (I have heard young apistos are prone to
>egg predation until they become more experienced).
>
>
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